They say third time’s a charm, and that can be true of our third visit to the Estonian capital city of Tallinn, for the annual Black Nights Film Festival. Taking place every November, HeyUGuys were fortunate enough to be invited back to celebrate all things cinema, in one of our stand-out events of the film calendar.
With the city prepping for the festive period, the wooden shacks in the old town square readying themselves to fill up tourists and locals alike with mulled wine – before the Christmas spirit engulfs the city, comes a festival that offers a uniquely diverse programme of films from around the world, showcasing stories from filmmakers both old and new, from such a myriad of fascinating voices.
Though our stay was sadly somewhat brief, during our four-day visit we still managed to get a flavour of the festival without having an all-encompassing experience, but even during our limited stay, we were able to see a small handful of great new titles.
A noteworthy screening came in the form of The Shadow, showing in the festival’s official competition. It was great to indulge in local cinema, in what is a gripping Estonian thriller (named ‘Vari’ in its native language), directed by Jaak Kilmi. Staying true to the classic cinematic trope of having an unreliable narrator, in this instance that of the legendary Estonian poet Juhan Liiv. A mysterious feature, we deal with a man accused of losing his mind, all the while trying to uncover the truth behind a murder. It’s a film that looks at patriotism and freedom, as a nuanced and complex character study of a real life wordsmith. The lead role is brought to life emphatically by Pääru Oja, an actor we know well – having worked alongside him at the Berlinale during the Shooting Stars event (of which we are a media partner). He showcased his abilities here, that proved why he was awarded the prestigious accolade in Germany.
Another highlight for us, came by way of the Michel Hazanavicius animation, The Most Precious of Cargoes. The film, which was in competition at Cannes earlier this year, played in one of our favourite strands, entitled ‘Best of Festivals’, which collates some of the finest and most daring works from across the year, from the other film festivals from around the world. It’s a great way to play catch-up, for films you have missed but have been desperate to see. This one fits the description: as the celebrated Oscar-winning director of The Artist, has made a truly moving and pertinent film about the Holocaust. Don’t be fooled by the word ‘animation’ – there isn’t anything magical or fantastical about this; it’s a profoundly raw film that is difficult to watch at times.
Other strands at the festival include the First Feature Competition, as well as Doc@POFF Competition, Critic’s Picks Competition, as well as the strand showcasing experimental cinema, called Rebels with a Cause. Of course given where the festival is taking place, there is also a strand strictly for Baltic Films, which shows off the best of Estonia, Latvian and Lithuanian productions. In short, there’s a helluva lot of films to indulge in, that will satisfy all types of viewer and needs.
But as with any festival, there must be films that are crowned winners (yes we know, we know, art is subjective – but it’s still nice to reward creativity). The top prize went to Mongolian drama Silent City Driver, while the Best First Feature was given to German title No Dogs Allowed. The list of all other winners can be found here.
It’s not just cinema that makes a festival special, however. Part of why we love travelling around the world for different film festivals is to get to know the city you are entering. To absorb yourself in the rich culture and history. When you’re sat in a cinema room you could be anywhere in the world, it could be Tallinn or it could be London. But it’s when you step outside, that’s when you’re able to differentiate, that’s where you get to truly know a place – and so we decided to get to grips and learn more about the history of Estonia. Much of that happens by simply wandering aimlessly around the old town, getting lost in the labyrinth of cobbled streets, stopping off for a coffee to get away from the blistering cold temperatures outside.
But we mostly heightened our knowledge of the nation by taking a trip to the Open Air Museum; an interactive tour back in time, discovering how Estonians used to live, ranging from the housings and living conditions of centuries past, right up until the present day, featuring recreated homes to truly understand and immerse yourself into the history of Estonian life. What followed the tour was a three course dining experience, eating traditional food, such as meat soup and bread, to pork belly with parsley potatoes, and finishing up with a porridge-like dessert (this one split opinions). Drawing inspiration from neighbouring countries, the cuisine – and all round experience at the museum – had elements of Russian and Finnish culture.
And now to finnish our article (sorry), a quick word to the wonderful night-life of the Black Nights festival. The clue is in the title – this is a festival that comes to life after dark. With a host of drinks receptions, and parties, to karaoke and dancing, there’s great fun to be had, eating canapes and meeting filmmakers and producers and fellow journalists from all around the world, sharing a passion for cinema (and free alcohol).
So that’s another year ticked off. Assuming our awful karaoke singing didn’t put off the festival organisers too greatly (who doesn’t love a bit of Careless Whisper?) we’ll be back next year to do it all over again. Nägemist!
